Fes is not just a city — it’s a living museum. Founded in the 8th century, it is Morocco’s oldest imperial city and long considered the country’s cultural and spiritual heart. Unlike cities that have adapted themselves to tourism, Fes has stayed unapologetically authentic. Life here continues much as it has for centuries, and as a visitor, you step straight into that rhythm.
History of Fes
Fes was founded in 789 AD by Idris I and later expanded by his son Idris II. Thanks to its strategic location and religious importance, Fes quickly grew into a major center of learning, trade, and craftsmanship. Scholars, artisans, and merchants from across the Islamic world settled here, shaping the city into what it is today.
For centuries, Fes was Morocco’s capital and intellectual powerhouse. Even now, it remains the spiritual center of the country, home to ancient universities, mosques, and traditions that are still very much alive.
The Must-See Sights of Fes
Bab Bou Jeloud – The Blue Gate
Bab Bou Jeloud is the symbolic entrance to the old medina. The gate’s blue tiles face the modern city, while green tiles — the color of Islam — face inward. Crossing this gate feels like stepping back in time, straight into the heart of medieval Fes.
Fes el Bali – The Old Medina
Fes el Bali is the largest car-free urban area in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its thousands of narrow alleyways form a maze filled with markets, mosques, homes, and workshops. Donkeys replace cars, craftsmen still work by hand, and daily life unfolds in full view. It’s intense, overwhelming, and absolutely unforgettable.
Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University
Founded in 859 AD, Al-Qarawiyyin is widely recognized as the oldest continuously operating university in the world. It has been a center of religious and scientific learning for over a millennium. While non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque itself, glimpses from nearby courtyards already reveal its importance and beauty.
Chouara Tannery – Leather, Tradition, and Mint
A visit to the Chouara Tannery is one of the most memorable experiences in Fes. From surrounding terraces, you look down onto stone vats filled with natural dyes where leather is treated using centuries-old methods.
One detail you’ll never forget: the smell. The process involves natural ingredients, including pigeon droppings, which creates a strong odor. Locals and shop owners often hand visitors a sprig of fresh mint to hold under their nose — not just a tourist trick, but a genuine way to make the experience more bearable. It’s all part of seeing Fes as it truly is.
Bou Inania Madrasa – Art and Spirituality
Bou Inania Madrasa is one of the architectural highlights of Fes. Also open to non-Muslims, it showcases stunning zellij tilework, carved cedarwood, and a serene marble courtyard. It’s a perfect example of how beauty and spirituality blend seamlessly in Moroccan design.
The Royal Palace of Fes – Dar al-Makhzen
The Royal Palace of Fes, also known as Dar al-Makhzen, is one of the city’s most impressive landmarks. While the palace itself is not open to the public, its massive golden gates are absolutely worth seeing. They reflect the importance of Fes as one of Morocco’s royal cities and offer a striking contrast to the narrow streets of the medina.
Jnan Sbil Gardens – A Moment of Calm
After the sensory overload of the medina, Jnan Sbil Gardens feel like a breath of fresh air. This beautifully maintained park is filled with palm trees, fountains, and shaded walking paths. It’s one of the rare places in Fes where time slows down — perfect for a quiet walk or a short break from the city’s intensity.
Borj Nord – The Best View Over Fes
Perched on a hill above the medina, Borj Nord offers panoramic views over the entire city. From here, you truly understand the scale and complexity of Fes. Visiting at sunset is especially rewarding, as the city glows in warm tones and the call to prayer echoes across the rooftops.
Favorite Cafés in Fes
• Cafe Clock – Known for its rooftop terrace, camel burger, and cultural events.
• Le Tarbouche – Ideal for mint tea near Bab Bou Jeloud.
• Nagham Cafe – Quiet, local, and relaxed.
Favorite Restaurants in Fes
• Nur Restaurant – Contemporary Moroccan cuisine with refined flavors.
• The Ruined Garden – A peaceful garden oasis in the medina.
• Dar Roumana – Elegant dining in a traditional riad setting.
Where to Stay: Riads and Hotels in Fes
• Riad Fes – Classic luxury and beautiful courtyards.
• Riad Laaroussa – Warm, personal, and full of character.
• Palais Amani – Calm, elegant, and known for its garden and hammam.
