There are places you visit, and places you feel. Sidi Bou Said belongs firmly to the second category. Perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean, this small village just outside Tunis feels like a pause button on the world.
Time moves differently here. The air is softer, the light warmer, and everything seems to slow down naturally. Sidi Bou Said isn’t about ticking off sights — it’s about wandering, sitting, watching, and simply being present.
A Short History of Sidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said owes its name to Abu Said al-Baji, a religious scholar who lived here in the 13th century. For centuries, the village remained a quiet spiritual retreat overlooking the sea. Its transformation into the iconic blue-and-white village we know today came much later.
In the early 20th century, artists and intellectuals began settling here, drawn by the light, the views, and the calm. Regulations were introduced to preserve the village’s unique look — whitewashed walls, blue doors, wrought-iron windows — a tradition that continues to this day. Thanks to this protection, Sidi Bou Said has managed to remain remarkably authentic despite its popularity.
Wandering the Streets – The Art of Doing Nothing
The best thing to do in Sidi Bou Said is to walk without a plan. Narrow streets climb gently uphill, lined with heavy blue doors, flowering bougainvillea, and quiet corners that beg you to stop.
What I love most is how peaceful it feels, even when there are other visitors around. There’s no rush. No pressure. Just the sound of footsteps, distant conversations, and the sea below. Every turn feels like a postcard, but never staged — it’s simply how life is here.
The View That Never Gets Old
At some point, every walk leads you to the edge of the cliff. And every single time, the view delivers. The Mediterranean stretches endlessly, changing color with the light — deep blue in the morning, silver and gold as the sun begins to set.
I’ve stood here more times than I can count, and it never feels repetitive. It’s the kind of view that makes you quiet without trying. One that reminds you how small everything else suddenly seems.
Café Culture – Mint Tea with a View
for good reason. Sitting down here feels like a ritual rather than a break.
Café des Délices is the obvious choice, and honestly, it deserves its reputation. Mint tea in hand, the sea below, time slipping by unnoticed — it’s hard to imagine a better moment.
For something a little calmer, Café Sidi Chabaane offers a quieter atmosphere with just as much charm. These cafés aren’t about speed or service — they’re about lingering.
Dar Nejma Ezzahra – Music, Art, and a Dream on the Cliff
One place that should never be skipped in Sidi Bou Said is Dar Nejma Ezzahra. Built in the early 20th century by Baron Rodolphe d’Erlanger, this extraordinary palace feels like a love letter to Tunisian-Arab culture.
Perched high above the sea, Dar Nejma Ezzahra is a masterpiece of architecture, blending Andalusian, Arab, and Mediterranean influences. Walking through its courtyards and rooms feels intimate and almost personal, as if the house itself is whispering stories. Today, it houses the Centre for Arab and Mediterranean Music — which somehow makes perfect sense. This is a place built for beauty, reflection, and creativity.
The views alone are worth the visit. Standing on the terrace, with the sea stretching endlessly below, it’s impossible not to slow down.
Take a Break with a Fresh Smoothie
Between wandering the streets, climbing up and down staircases, and stopping every few minutes to admire the view, Sidi Bou Said can get surprisingly warm. That’s when it’s time to pause — and drink a smoothie.
In Sidi Bou Said, fresh fruit smoothies are everywhere, and they’re exactly what you need. Simple, cold, and refreshing. Think orange, strawberry, banana, sometimes blended with dates or almonds — nothing fancy, just pure flavor.
Grab one from a small stand, find a bit of shade, and slow down. It’s one of those small, everyday moments that fits the village perfectly: unpretentious, refreshing, and quietly enjoyable.
Eat a Bambalouni – No Excuses
Before you leave Sidi Bou Said, there’s one thing you absolutely must do: eat a bambalouni.
This Tunisian doughnut — crispy on the outside, soft and airy inside — is freshly fried and generously dusted with sugar. It’s simple, slightly greasy, and completely irresistible. Locals eat it without thinking twice, usually standing nearby, sugar on their fingers, smiling. Do the same. It’s part of the experience.
Dar El Annabi – Stepping Inside a Home
To truly understand the village, I recommend visiting Dar El Annabi. This traditional house offers a glimpse into how families once lived here — elegant, inward-looking, and beautifully detailed.
The courtyards, tiled walls, and shaded rooms reflect a lifestyle built around calm and privacy. It adds depth to your visit, turning beauty into understanding.
Small Details That Stay With You
What stays with me most about Sidi Bou Said are the little things: the weight of a wooden door as you pass, the smell of jasmine, the way the light hits blue paint in the afternoon. It’s a place made of moments rather than monuments.
You don’t leave with a checklist completed — you leave with a feeling.
Chez Weld Moufida – Tunisian Cooking at Its Purest
Some of the best meals happen in the smallest places, and Chez Weld Moufida is the perfect example of that. This tiny restaurant — with space for maybe four people if you’re lucky — is easy to miss, but unforgettable once you find it.
There’s no show, no menu theatrics, no rush. Your food is cooked right in front of you, slowly and with care, exactly the way Tunisian home cooking is meant to be. The aromas fill the room as spices hit hot oil, vegetables simmer, and sauces come together almost instinctively. You’re not just eating here — you’re witnessing the process.
It feels intimate, almost personal, like being invited into someone’s kitchen rather than dining out. And the flavors? Deep, honest, comforting. This is Tunisian food stripped back to what really matters: time, skill, and love for the craft.
If you’re looking for something polished, this isn’t it. But if you want something real — this place will stay with you long after the last bite.
Favorite Places to Stay in (or near) Sidi Bou Said
Dar Said – Classic and Elegant
Dar Said
Een prachtig boutique hotel met traditionele architectuur en uitzicht op zee. Rustig, sfeervol en helemaal in de stijl van het dorp.
Maison Dedine – Small Luxury, Big Views
Maison Dedine
Intiem, exclusief en perfect voor wie stilte en uitzicht zoekt. Dit is geen hotel voor drukte, maar voor langzaam ontbijten en lange avonden.
